Basic Sock Pattern - Eclectic Heel
Judith Newman's Modifications
(Updated Nov 23 2013)
Sizing Chart: http://www.lupinworks.com/knitting/sizingChart.pdf
This chart gives you information about number of stitches to cast
on, how many rows to knit for the foot, etc.
Yarn: 4-ply sock yarn: 75-80% wool, 25-20% polyamide
- you need the synthetic to get the wear in the heals and toes.
Brand names Variegated : Regia, Opal, Confetti, Soxx, Fortissima,
Trekking, Supersocke are some of the brands for the variegated yarn.
Solids: Sisu for the solids because they have the greatest
range of colours.
150 g of yarn (3 50g balls) will make 2 pairs of women’s
size 7-8 socks - so I purchase 1 solid, 2 variegated
Gauge: 7.5 stitches on 2mm, 2.25mm, or 2.5 mm double pointed
needles (I highly recommend bamboo needles!)
Size: to fit an 8" ankle approx.
The following pattern is for a women's shoe size 7-8.
Cuff: Cast on 68 stitches (16, 16, 16, 20 stitches on each
of 4 needles)
Do K2 P2 ribbing for 12 rows
Leg: Switch to stocking stitch, redistribute
stitches so you have 17 on each needle then knit for 20 rows,
1 stitch on each needle to 16 stitches, and continue knitting until
desired length: 80-90 rows
Leave 16 stitches on each of needle 2 and 3 for instep.
Put remaining 32 stitches (from needles 1 & 4) on 1 needle and
work heel flap back and forth on this needle.
Knit 14 rows (knit 32 stitches, purl back 32 stitches - do this
seven times for 14 rows ending with a purl row)
Short rows shaping for turning heel:
- Row 1 (RS): slip 1 knit wise, K20, wrap & and turn (or
turn & wrap)
- Row 2 (WS): slip the wrapped st purlwise, P10, W&T
- Row 3 (RS): slip the wrapped st knitwise, K until the wrapped
st of previous row, W&T
- Row 4 (WS): slip the wrapped st purlwise, K until the wrapped
st of previous row, W&T.
“Wrap” means putting the wool to the opposite side
- if you're knitting it means taking the wool to the back, if you're
purling it means bringing the wool to the front - slipping the next
stitch, then turning the sock around, slip the first "wrapped" stitch,
then continue either knitting or purling the stitches to the wrapped
st , knitting that stitch this time, then doing another W&T.
Here’s how the “wrap & turn” is done - (W & T):
At the end of a KNIT row:
- bring wool to the front
- slip the next stitch
- take wool to back
- TURN the knitting to purl
- slip the wrapped (1st) stitch
- purl from second stitch to end of needle (including the last wrapped
At the end of a PURL row:
- take wool to the back
- slip the next stitch
- bring the wool forward
- TURN the knitting to knit
- slip the wrapped (1st) stitch
- knit from second stitch to end of needle (including the last
Each row is one stitch longer (as you bring in the stitches on
the sides of the needle)
Knit/purl rows until you are working on all 32 stitches - ending
on a knit row with your yarn on the left hand side (heel facing
Put the 16 stitches on the right of the needle onto a new needle
(so you are again knitting with 4/5 needles)
It’s time to pick up the gusset sts and work in the
Using your 5th needle, pick up 6 (or 7) sts from the flap edge
- these are the original stitches that you slipped while creating
the flap (including one from the instep of the flap edge - for a
total of 7 (or 8)).
Knit these stitches onto needle #1 (the needle on the left side
of the heel) - bring the needle from the wrong side of the stitch
so that you create a twist in the stitch - this makes the stitches
on the side of the gusset tighter.
Now Work across needles 2 and 3 – the instep stitches.
Using your 5th needle pick up 1 stitch in the instep and then 1
stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches on the right side
of the heel flap (heel facing you) for a total of 7 (or 8) stitches.
(This becomes needle 4). Slip these stitches onto the needle on
the right side of the heel.
Knit these picked up gusset stitches - remembering to make a twist
to tighten the stitch) - then knit the 16 remaining on needle 4.
Needles 1 and 4 should now have the same number of stitches - 23
- Row 1 - Knit one row: needle 1, needle 2, needle 3, needle 4
- Row 2 -At left end of needle 1 K2 together, knit needles
2, 3, K2 together at the start of needle 4
- Row 3 knit all 4 needles
- Repeat Row 2 and Row 3 until you have 16 stitches remaining
on needles 1 & 4 (with 23 stitches that should be a total
14 rows - decreasing every other row)
Foot: Continue in plain knitting on 64 stitches until
the foot is the desired length –
approximately 7" (or
50 rows) for a ladies size 8 shoe. (If your tension is loose, then
measure the foot length from the finish of the gusset)
Toe: Decrease Row:
Needle 1: work to last 3 stitches, K2
Needle 2: K1 K2 together, Knit to end
Needle 3: work to last 3 stitches, K2 together, K1
Needle 4: K1 K2 together, Knit to end
*Knit 2 rows and repeat Decrease
Row* — Repeat until you
have 12 stitches on each needle.
Then *Knit 1 row, and repeat Decrease Row* – Repeat until
you have 9 stitches on each needle.
Finally do Decrease Rows until you have 6 stitches on each needle.
Do decrease on Needle 1 – that will give you 5 stitches
on that needle.
Graft Toe: Use Kitchener Stitch: http://lupinworks.com/knitting/kitchener/
Tip: Since I count rows and don't measure
inches/cm, I use a loose thread to mark off rows as I go.
When I have ~ 20 rows knit, I pick up a stitch in row 1 (row immediately
after the ribbing) and in every 10th row after that. That way I
don't have to go back to the beginning to count how many rows I
have, I can tell by how many rows I've marked as I go along.
I also pick up a stitch when I do the first decrease on the gusset
so I can tell which is the decrease row; and I mark the row decreases
the same way. Once I'm finished I just pull the thread out and there's
no indication that I was counting rows!