Basic Sock Pattern - Regular Heel
Judith Newman's Modifications
Sizing Chart: http://www.lupinworks.com/knitting/sizingChart.pdf
This chart gives you information about number of stitches to cast
on, how many rows to knit for the foot, etc.
Yarn: 4-ply sock yarn: 75-80% wool, 25-20% polyamide
- you need the synthetic to get the wear in the heals and toes.
Brand names Variegated : Regia, Opal, Confetti, Soxx, Fortissima,
Trekking, Supersocke are some of the brands for the variegated yarn.
Solids: Sisu for the solids because they have the greatest
range of colours.
150 g of yarn (3 50g balls) will make 2 pairs of women’s
size 7-8 socks - so I purchase 1 solid, 2 variegated
Gauge: 7.5 stitches on 2mm, 2.25mm, or 2.5 mm double pointed
needles (I highly recommend bamboo needles!)
Size: to fit an 8" ankle approx.
The following pattern is for a women's shoe size 7-8.
Cuff: Cast on 68 stitches (16, 16, 16, 20 stitches on each
of 4 needles)
Do K2 P2 ribbing for 12 rows
Leg: Switch to stocking stitch, redistribute
stitches so you have 17 on each needle then knit for 20 rows,
1 stitch on each needle to 16 stitches, and continue knitting until
desired length: 80-90 rows
Heel: Leave 32 stitches on needle 2 and 3 for instep.
put remaining 32 stitches (from needles 1 & 4) on 1 needle and
work heel flap back and forth on this needle.
Regular Heel Stitch:
Row 1: sl1, *K1, sl 1* repeat from * across the needle ending with
Row 2: sl 1, purl across
Work in heel stitches until heel flap is about 2.25" long
Working in short rows over heel flap stitches:
Row 1: sl 1, K19, K2 together, turn
Row 2: sl 1, P9 P2 together, turn
Row 3: sl 1, K9, K2 together, turn
Row 4: sl 1, P9 P2 together, turn…
Repeat rows 3, 4 until all the "side" stitches are used
and 10 stitches remain on the needle.
(Here are some detailed instructions for creating an alternate
Gusset: Knit 5 stitches. Add back in the spare needle and Knit
the 5 remaining stitches. (This needle becomes needle 1).
1 stitch in each slipped edge stitches along the side of the heel
flap and 1 additional stitch in the instep.
Knit these stitches
onto needle 1 (twisting each stitch as you knit it to make the join
Work across needles 2 and 3 – the instep stitches.
Pick up 1 stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches on the other
side of the heel flap and 1 extra stitch in the instep.
needle 4) Knit these stitches then the 5 remaining heel flap stitches.
Needles 1 and 4 should have the same number of stitches.
Knit one row.
Foot: Continue in plain knitting on these 64 stitches until
the foot is the desired length –
approximately 7" (or
50 rows) for a ladies size 8 shoe.
Toe: Decrease Row:
Needle 1: work to last 3 stitches, K2
Needle 2: K1 K2 together, Knit to end
Needle 3: work to last 3 stitches, K2 together, K1
Needle 4: K1 K2 together, Knit to end
*Knit 2 rows and repeat Decrease
Row* — Repeat until you
have 12 stitches on each needle.
Then *Knit 1 row, and repeat Decrease Row* – Repeat until
you have 9 stitches on each needle.
Finally do Decrease Rows until you have 6 stitches on each needle.
Do decrease on Needle 1 – that will give you 5 stitches
on that needle.
Graft Toe: Use Kitchener Stitch: http://lupinworks.com/knitting/kitchener/
Tip: Since I count rows and don't measure
inches/cm, I use a loose thread to mark off rows as I go.
When I have ~ 20 rows knit, I pick up a stitch in row 1 (row immediately
after the ribbing) and in every 10th row after that. That way I
don't have to go back to the beginning to count how many rows I
have, I can tell by how many rows I've marked as I go along.
I also pick up a stitch when I do the first decrease on the gusset
so I can tell which is the decrease row; and I mark the row decreases
the same way. Once I'm finished I just pull the thread out and there's
no indication that I was counting rows!